The Curly Girl Method

Make your hair curl naturally! The Curly Girl Method (abbreviated CGM and sometimes inaccurately referred to as the Curly Hair Method) has come to completely dominate the world of everyday care for curly and wavy hair.  It is a perfectly thought-out concept that promotes the beauty, softness and health of naturally wavy hair. Be inspired by this unique method of styling and defining your waves and curls. Get the best CGM products and practical tips for curly hair from the comfort of home at Notino.

Where did the Curly Girl Method come from?

The first mention of the Curly Girl Method appeared in 2010 in the book “Curly Girl: The Handbook” by British writer and hairdresser Lorraine Massey, who revealed her secrets of caring for her naturally curly hair. This method has since revolutionised care for curly and wavy hair, and its principles are now followed by millions of women and men around the world. 

What is the magic of the Curly Girl Method? 

Whether your hair has gentle waves, cute curls, or proud afro coils, the Curly Girl Method completely respects the needs of all curls, big or small. The CGM concept encompasses haircare in its entirety, from choosing the right products with no unwanted chemicals, to gentle washing and drying, to styling afterwards. And it transforms shapeless, frizzy hair into a cascade of perfectly defined, hydrated and dazzlingly glossy curls or waves. 

Who is the Curly Girl Method for?

The Curly Girl Method is designed for all types of naturally curly and wavy hair. On the other hand, you can’t change the look of waves and curls created with curlers, curling irons or a perm using the Curly Hair Method. Nor can naturally straight hair be made wavy via this method.

Know your hair from root to tip 

How do I get beautiful curly hair? First you need to get to know your curls better. This is the only way to achieve the initial results quickly and, with a bit of patience, your curls will be completely transformed in just a few months.

Types of wavy and curly hair

Wavy and curly hair is completely unique. Basically, we categorise it simply by how much your hair waves, which is dependent on the shape of the follicle the hair grows from. However, keep in mind that your curl type may start to evolve and change over time. 

TYPE 2 – Wavy Hair

Bohemian wavy hair is neither curly nor straight, exhibiting gentle waves with the occasional random spirals. The hair is usually straight at the crown, with the waves starting from the ears down.

• 2A waves represent the finest type of wavy hair, which often lacks volume and proper definition. Some products can weigh this hair type down even more, practically straightening it, so go for products which are lightweight in consistency.
• 2B waves are fine, S-shaped strands that crave more definition.
• 2C waves form distinctive S-shapes that can start at the roots. This type of hair usually has a coarser texture and a tendency to frizz.

TYPE 3 – Curly Hair

Curly hair boasts bouncy and clearly formed curls that have more volume and wave at the crown of the head.

• 3A curls are about two centimetres in diameter and beautifully defined. In order to shape them better, it helps if you curl them around your finger after washing (the finger coiling technique).
• 3B curls are bouncy spirals with a smaller diameter than 3A curls. They are coarser in texture, so they also tend to frizz more and need a good dose of hydration as part of their everyday care.
• 3C ringlets are also referred to as curly coils and boast plenty of volume. This hair type does not benefit from hot air drying.

TYPE 4 – Afro

Kinky hair or afro hair consists of perfectly rich Z-shaped or tight S-shaped spirals that have a tendency to frizz.

• 4A curls are very similar to type 3C, but slightly denser.
• 4B curls are more Z-shaped.
• 4C curls are the tightest type of curls.

Hair porosity

Hair porosity is another key indicator that influences which Curly Girl Method products to choose for your curls. The ability of hair to absorb and retain moisture is determined by the cuticles covering the surface of each hair, which can be affected by many external factors (heat treatment of the hair, the environment, hair colouring, and unsuitable products and care).

Types of hair porosity

• A low porosity of hair indicates that the cuticles are almost closed, so that water and nourishing substances and oils cannot penetrate the hair. This type of hair takes a long time to dry after washing, and the hair can lose volume quickly, but it rarely breaks or frays. The big drawback is that most of the substances from haircare products sit on the surface of the hair, so regular deep cleaning is important in order to remove buildup. 

Tip: For hair with low porosity, opt for lightweight mousses, gels and natural oils such as jojoba or argan oil. Also, indulge in frequent deep-conditioning treatments and always apply hair products to damp hair while the cuticles are open.

• A medium porosity of hair, with slightly open cuticles, enables good penetration of nourishing substances, and there is not as much loss of hydration as there is with high porosity. This type of hair has good volume and elasticity and looks healthy, so it only requires the classic level of care.
• A high porosity of hair is characterised by the most open cuticles, so that substances from hair products and water can penetrate it easily, but the hydration can just as easily escape out of it. This hair type usually requires a lot of products, otherwise the hair looks dull, dry, frizzy, and easily tangles and breaks.

Tip: Highly porous hair benefits from heavier hair products such as butters, creams and oils for dry hair, especially coconut oil or castor oil. Treat your hair to deep-conditioning treatments, always rinse it with cold water to better close the cuticles, and avoid frequent blow-drying and other heat styling.

How do I determine my hair porosity level?

With a simple home test, it’s easy to find out how porous your hair is. 

• Water test – Fill a container with room temperature water and place a few dry hairs on the surface. If the hair remains at the surface, it usually has low porosity; partially submerged hair has medium porosity; and fully sunken hair has high porosity.
• Touch test – Grasp a single strand of hair between your thumb and forefinger and run them upwards. If the hair feels rough to the touch, it has high porosity, whilst a completely smooth hair has low porosity.
• Soak test – Try spraying your hair lightly with water from a spray bottle and observe how quickly the water is absorbed. If your hair soaks up the water quickly, it has high porosity. Conversely, if water droplets form on the surface of the hair and the water does not soak in quickly, it has low porosity.

Protein vs. hydration – What is your hair lacking?

Before you start choosing Curly Girl products, it’s also a good idea to find out what your hair is missing. Human hair is mostly made up of keratin, which is crucial for healthy hair structure and growth. It is also made up of melanin (pigment), which affects hair colour, and other important elements such as water, vitamins, zinc and other metals. You can easily choose the best CGM products for your hair depending on whether your hair lacks keratin or protein.

• A lack of hydration in the hair is characterised by dry hair that is neither bouncy nor has a healthy shine. In this case, hair benefits from hydrating conditioners that contain glycerine, panthenol and natural oils such as castor and avocado oils.
• A lack of protein in the hair usually manifests as very damaged hair that looks limp, and curls do not hold their shape. For lifeless hair, the keratin, protein, collagen and amino acids in CGM protein products (e.g. protein conditioner) deliver strength. You can also try hair oils.

Hair stretch test

Do both descriptions seem to match for your curls? In that case, try a simple test that can tell you more about your hair. 

• After washing it, take one wet hair, grasp it at both ends and try to pull it gently and slowly. 
• If the hair soon breaks and cannot be stretched, your hair is dry and needs hydrating.
• If, on the other hand, the hair stretches, doesn’t spring back, then breaks, your hair is damaged and needs more protein.

Curly Girl Method – Products and Process

The main aim of the Curly Hair Method is to reduce the use of hair products containing silicones and sulphates that dry out or block the surface of your hair. You should also avoid products containing drying alcohol or waxes. The right Curly Girl products provide perfect nourishment and gentle cleansing that, together, lead to natural definition and the restoration of your curls. Learn how to use these products correctly in each step of the Curly Hair Method.

Hair washing with CGM

There are several types of CGM washing:

• Thorough cleaning of the hair is done at the very beginning of the Curly Girl Method to cleanse the hair of product buildup. To cleanse, use a deep-cleaning shampoo without silicones but with sulphates (a clarifying shampoo) to remove grease, silicones and other impurities, allowing your hair to better absorb the nutrients from products. You can also repeat this step while actively using the Curly Hair method, for example after dyeing your hair.
• The co-wash is ideal for dry and coarser curls that do not benefit from using shampoo. Apart from the occasional deep cleansing, hair is washed using only a special conditioner (called co-wash), which also contains cleansing components. 
• Low-poo hair washing benefits soft curls that are not weighed down. A gentle low-poo shampoo is suitable for everyday hair washing (except for deep cleansing) because it does not contain sulphates, silicones or alcohol.

Tip: Use a quick test to find out which type of washing is best for your curls. Grasp a hair a short distance from the scalp and gently rub it between your fingers. If the hair feels distinct, it is coarse, so the co-wash method is ideal for you. If, on the other hand, you can hardly feel it, the low-poo method is right for you.

Hair nutrition with CGM

The next step is intensive hair nourishment, which prevents frizz, breakage and split ends.

• After washing your hair, use a CGM conditioner to give you soft and healthy curls. Always use conditioner if you’re following the low-poo technique. However, if you have been using the co-wash technique, you can either use conditioner or go straight to styling. 
• Between washes, you can also use a leave-in conditioner to nourish your hair and lock in moisture, prevent dryness and encourage wave shaping.
• Once a week, treat your hair to a deep conditioner with a nourishing, regenerating effect.

Styling your hair with CGM

Hair nourishment is followed by styling to help promote the natural beauty and shape of your curls. After washing, apply a leave-in treatment to wet hair, followed by a hair gel or mousse, or you can even try a combination of these products. Gently squeeze the gel or mousse into wet hair – and don’t be afraid to apply a larger amount of product – then gently squeeze the water out of your hair with a towel.

Tip: It is not a good idea to use a terry towel to dry curly hair. Instead, try a microfibre towel, muslin cloth, or an old cotton t-shirt. 

Hair drying with CGM

How do I keep curly hair under control while I dry it? To support your waves and hair volume, and to dry your hair faster, use a hairdryer with a diffuser first, then let your hair air dry freely. Once your hair is completely dry, it’s time to scrunch or pat the hair gel crunch out with a soft cloth or with your hands. The hair ends up beautifully soft and perfectly shaped.

Combing with CGM

The basic rule of the Curly Girl Method is to never comb your hair “dry”, which leads to brittle and frizzy hair. If your hair gets tangled between washes, use water and a detangler or a leave-in conditioner before combing. Always use a wide-tooth comb for combing.

CGM tools

For naturally wavy hair, there are already all sorts of clever gadgets on the market that make hair care even easier for people with waves and curls. You can choose from a variety of hairbrushes for better wave shaping, silk pillowcases and caps to protect your hair from harsh friction while you sleep, a variety of scrunchies, hair clips, and even heat caps for deep hair treatments.

Fall in love with your natural curls! The secret of the Curly Girl Method is to give your hair exactly what it needs to show the world its unique curly beauty. Discover special products for the Curly Hair Method at Notino to give your hair a healthy look, distinctive shape and irresistible volume.