Dermatologist: The only solutions to acne are timely treatment and the right products

We talk about acne in the context of problematic skin, which is something we’re not born with. When exactly does skin become problematic?

Acne is usually brought on by the hormonal imbalances that happen during puberty. But even during and after pregnancy. During and after breastfeeding. When experiencing PMS or menopause… Simply whenever we’re dealing with significant hormonal fluctuations. 

And what about genetics or our lifestyle? Do we contribute to acne by what we eat, for example?

It’s true that foods with a high glycemic index, such as white bread and sugary foods, can aggravate acne. Or fast food, for example. But this isn’t the result of excess fat from your diet causing oily skin. We’re talking about more complex metabolic processes. Smoking, alcohol or stress can have similar effects. And, of course, genetic factors also play a role.

Can problematic skin be avoided altogether? By means of early prevention, perhaps? 

Preventive cosmetic care starting around the age of nine or ten is appropriate for several reasons. It creates a space in which children can begin to learn to care of themselves. In the short term, this will reduce the risk of acne. In the long term, getting into the habit of sticking to a beauty routine will even help them slow down the process of skin ageing. 

What would be an example of an “anti-acne” beauty routine for teenagers?

The key is in learning how to cleanse, moisturise and protect the skin. 

Products with alcohol have long been recommended for cleansing problematic skin to help dry it out. Is that still the case?

Only under specific conditions, when the alcohol in a given cleansing product is combined with so-called compensatory ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid or glycerine, which prevent the skin from drying out and keep it hydrated. In that case, the actual presence of alcohol is relatively unharmful. 

Which ingredients should we really be looking for in products for problematic skin? 

Salicylic acid. It dissolves sebum and takes care of any dead skin cells and clogged pores, helping to reduce the appearance of blemishes and comedones. Alpha-hydroxy acids are extremely useful, especially glycolic acid. It removes dead skin cells, making sure that the skin doesn’t get contaminated by impurities, excess oil is removed, and acne doesn’t form. Glycolic acid also targets hyperpigmentation after a breakout has healed, so it can aid in smoothing scars. 

And are there any other essential ingredients?

Retinol is a great one. It’s a vitamin A derivative that supports the healing of acne and provides an overall soothing effect. Vitamin C brightens the skin, protects it against the external environment and also delicately lightens any post-inflammatory spots left after healing has occurred. Niacinamide is also a great fit. Again, it soothes the inflammation that comes with acne and helps with hydration and more.

Alpha-hydroxy acids are most commonly found in chemical exfoliants. Is a traditional exfoliator also suitable? 

Be careful with mechanical exfoliation; an enzymatic exfoliator is a more gentle choice. And if you pair your cleansing milk, gel, foam and this kind of exfoliator with a skin toner and apply a face mask twice a week, your cleansing strategy will be perfect. 

Just cleansing alone isn’t enough; you talked about hydration…

If all we did was just cleanse our skin and dry it out, it would compensate for this by producing more sebum. We can prevent this by moisturising it, using ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, glycerine, niacinamide and panthenol. Cosmetic products with probiotics are a great choice. Once the skin’s microbiome is in good shape, the risk of acne decreases. 

As a third step, you mentioned the importance of protecting acne-prone skin. What do you mean by that?

Protecting it from the sun. It’s true that vitamin D that comes from the sun helps heal the skin, but if left unprotected, our skin can burn very easily. Even if it helps scabs form over blemishes, the dark spots left behind are much more visible. That’s why it’s essential to use products with SPF.

What if blemishes persist even later on in life? Is the treatment different in that case?

It is. You can tolerate products with higher concentrations of active ingredients. As you’ve already established a pretty extensive beauty routine, you can take care of your skin in several different steps. You can add serums with active ingredients into the mix…

Can I also try using at-home devices to treat my skin?

An ultrasonic skin spatula is most definitely the way to achieve thoroughly cleansed skin. You can also then use its other side to work in serums or creams more effectively, helping them penetrate deeper. 

If none of this works, is booking an appointment with a dermatologist the only option?

If you’ve been treating your acne for six weeks and nothing seems to be working, it’s best to already have an appointment booked. Blemishes need to be dealt with quickly before they take a toll on our self-esteem, social life and so on. Teenagers in particular tend to be affected by these painful factors. So there’s no reason for putting off a visit to the dermatologist if the acne is not improving. The earlier you make your visit, the easier it will be to stop the acne. 

You’re saying that acne can be stopped – how, specifically?

A dermatologist can tell you the cause of acne and what can aggravate it, and they can help you set up new beauty rituals. They should also recommend or prescribe medication. Antibiotic solutions are usually the first in line. You come back for a check-up after six weeks. This can be supplemented by expertly performed chemical peels, laser treatments and others. Other options with great results include plasma therapy or the administration of isotretinoin, which is a vitamin A derivative. 

And what if acne leaves us with scarring?

Good results can be achieved with professionally performed chemical peels or laser treatments – ideally combined with at-home treatment with retinol or salicylic acid. The most important part is preventing breakouts and subsequent scarring by sticking to the right skincare routine as discussed, while avoiding popping blemishes.