Ferulic acid
Ferulic acid has made a name for itself mainly for its antioxidant effects and its ability to fight free radicals, which are responsible for wrinkles and pigment spots. According to some studies, it goes brilliantly alongside other antioxidants, such as vitamin C and vitamin E, which deliver even better results.
But there’s a catch: “Ferulic acid tends to be unstable and prone to oxidation, which can reduce its effectiveness. So choose products with stable formulations and in the correct packaging – dark glass or airtight plastic containers that minimise contact with oxygen and light,” advises Amy Vondrackova, the owner of Beautylab.
Give other anti-ageing ingredients a chance
Tremella
Snow fungus, silver ear fungus, white cloud ears – all these names refer to tremella fuciformis, a Chinese mushroom that’s currently making waves not only in food supplements but also in skin care. Much like hyaluronic acid, it can hold an impressive amount of water, making it a dream for thirsty, dehydrated skin. Tremella has smaller molecules, allowing it to penetrate the skin more effectively than hyaluronic acid. On top of that, this Chinese mushroom is packed with antioxidants, and some studies suggest it supports the production of type I collagen.
Azelaic acid
If, alongside wrinkles, you’re also dealing with pigment spots or acne, you might find a powerful ally in azelaic acid. While it won’t erase wrinkles outright, it fights ageing in a different way. It can tackle certain types of hyperpigmentation (especially melasma), boost cell renewal and reduce acne scarring – all of which leads to a more even and youthful complexion. While results may take a bit longer to appear, azelaic acid is gentle enough to be a friend even to sensitive skin.
Bakuchiol
Similar effects to retinol, but without the irritation? Yes, please! Bakuchiol, derived from the seeds of the Indian plant Psoralea corylifolia, can stimulate collagen production, promote cell renewal, even out skin tone and prevent moisture loss. Except we’re not entirely sure yet. “The main drawback with bakuchiol is that, while there are a few studies suggesting its effectiveness in supporting skin renewal and reducing wrinkles, it’s not as extensively researched as retinol,” notes Amy Vondrackova.
Try out the effects of bakuchiol for yourself
Rambutan
And finally, perhaps the biggest competitor to retinol – rambutan. This tree from Southeast Asia, with fruits resembling the lychee, is packed with antioxidants, stimulates collagen and elastin production, supports cell renewal and locks hydration into the skin. “Rambutan also contains vitamin A, making it a natural alternative to retinol,” adds Amy Vondrackova.
However, she also points out that rambutan in skincare products isn’t as concentrated as synthetic retinol. This can be an advantage, however, particularly for sensitive skin. “I’d recommend it to people who prefer natural ingredients and are looking for a gentler alternative to retinol,” advises the expert.
So, is it worth giving some of these lesser-known anti-ageing ingredients a chance? If you want to play it safe, stick with retinol, hyaluronic acid or vitamin C. But if bakuchiol and the rest have piqued your interest, why not let them show what they’re truly capable of?